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TURKEY

Ortaköy Mosque beside the Bosphorus
Turkey really is a country with a bit of everything for everyone. Straddling the border between Europe and Asia, it culturally combines the secular and religious, its Christian and Islamic heritage, and the ultra-ancient (Çatal Höyuk dates from 7500BC) with the ultra-modern - drawing visitors from all over Europe (2m Brits per annum) and the world. And that's before we get onto the weird landscapes (Cappadocia), the stunning coastline & beautiful beaches (314 Blue Flag & 17 Blue Flag Marinas), the diverse flora and fauna (more endemic plant species exist in Turkey than the whole of Europe), the eleven UNESCO World Heritage sites, and the near perfect climate.

Tourist Office

Gototurkey.co.uk is the official website of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office in the UK.

What to do/Where to go

Antalya is Turkey's most visited region, not least because its ideal year-round climate keeps the hotels open and the visitors coming. Considered the "Turkish Riviera" it has dramatic scenery, wonderful beaches and a number of notable historical, archaeological and natural attractions such as the Chimaera Flame, Manavgat and Kursunlu waterfalls and the Saklikent Gorge. World-class archaeological sites include Aspendos, one of the best preserved Roman Theatres in the Mediterranean, the birthplace of St. Nicholas (aka Father Christmas), Perge, Side, Phaselis and Demre.

Istanbul, it turns out, after some recent archaeological excavations, is even older than we all thought, dating back over 8,000 years. No wonder it's firmly in the top ten most popular European city-break destinations, with plenty of 'must-sees' like the the Blue Mosque or the harem of Topkapi Palace, or my favourite, the cistern and 'must-dos' like taking a ferry on the Bosphorus, eating or shopping in Cehavir Mall, the largest mall in Europe. By the way, Istanbul is bidding to be host the 2020 Olympics.

Izmir (formerly Smyrna), on the Aegean coast is Turkey's third largest city by population and hugely popular with yachties and beach-goers who flock to the coast & islands nearby. Supposedly founded by the Amazon female warrior tribe, the city is also reputed to be the home of Homer (the ancient poet, not Simpson).

Cappadocia is the region famous for its other-worldly rock formations, subterranean churches and underground dwellings. Cappadocia was a refuge for the early Christians, who escaped persecution by living and worshipping underground (there are an estimated 3000 rock churches in the region). The best-known centres are Ürgüp, Göreme, Avanos, Üçhisar, Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı and Ihlara. Göreme, where many villagers still live in cave dwellings and there are a number of B&Bs, is most visited by tourists. It is surrounded by extraordinary rock formations known as Peri Bacaları or 'Fairy Chimneys'. The area is also famous for its carpet-weaving, wines and the distinctive red pottery of the Avanos area.

Ephesus, once the trade centre of the ancient world and a religious centre of early Christianity, is one of the most well-known classical cities along the West coast of Turkey. Ephesus hosted one of the seven churches of Asia, addressed in the Book of Revelation of The Bible, and it is said that the Gospel of John might have been written here. Today's archaeological site lies three kilometres south of the Selcuk district of Turkey’s İzmir Province. The two 'big ticket' buildings are mostly lost and mostly intact: The Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, is represented by one inconspicuous column, whereas the 3rd century Theatre, where it is said St. Paul preached, was expanded in the 1st century AD by the Romans until it reached its present seating capacity of 24,000 people.

Gulets are traditional 2/3-masted wooden yachts, and a fantastic Turkish invention, from the coastal towns of Bodrum and Marmaris, offering charter coastal holidays. These days, for convenience, many use their engines and don't actually sail, which in my view is an abomination! Avoid if possible.

What's Cool, New or Unusual

The latest of Turkey's 11 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, added July 2012, is the Neolithic site of Catalhoyuk in Central Anatolia, believed to be among the world's oldest human communities dating back approximately 9500 years. It is also the largest and best-preserved Neolithic site found to date and is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world with the wall paintings in the ancient city being regarded as some of humanity's earliest artworks.

Hidden Jewels - 5 destinations of the beaten tourist track

  1. Bozcaada - is a small island located in the Aegean in the approaches to the Dardanelles. Back in the 19th century it was almost as Greek in nature as the other Aegean islands. The Greek heritage explains several things about the island including its boutique wineries, happily flourishing once again after many years. It also explains the small lokantas with a look of the Greek taverna about them, and the streets of stone houses, and also the old Greek school and several churches together with an abandoned monastery.

  2. Edirne - was the second capital of the Ottoman Empire before Istanbul in the 14th and 15th centuries and has the monumental architecture to prove it. A bustling border town close to the Greek border it can be combined with Istanbul as a city break or be explored in its own right.

  3. Princes' Islands, Istanbul - A pleasant change of pace from the mainland, the relaxing Princes Islands are an hour or so ferry ride from Istanbul. Refreshingly car-free you can walk, hire a bicycle or horse-drawn phaeton to explore the streets of wooden white-washed summer houses dripping with climbing flowers and the pine-clad forested slopes. The largest and most popular island is Buyukada which hosts yearly pilgrimages up to the Greek Orthodox Monastery of St George at the summit of the island when ribbons are tied to shrubbery by worshippers on their walk up.

  4. Safranbolu - Beautifully preserved Ottoman town (a UNESCO world heritage site) located 225km north of Ankara on a steep-sided gorge. It has half-timbered Ottoman houses many of which have huge water pools to cool on hot summer days. There are artisans working at traditional Turkish crafts while local eateries serve traditional Ottoman cuisine though the town has kept its authentic atmosphere and is very much a place to live not a museum. There are fully restored Ottoman baths and a central caravanserai which dominates the town.

  5. Turkish Lake District Turkey has its very own 'lake district' in the southwest of the country just a two-hour drive from the Mediterranean coast. The largest and most beautiful lake, Lake Egirdir, offers swimming in a peaceful environment surrounded by greenery and mountains. There's a market worth visiting on the outskirts of nearby Pınar Pazari village where local fish are a speciality, in particular baby crayfish direct from the lake. The Yazili Kanyon National Park, Kovada Golu National Park and Kasnak Forest are nearby and cultural sites in the area include Sagalassos, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage site tentative list, high up on a plateau which has an ancient theatre in a good state of preservation and the unique 13th-century Selcuk Kubadabad Palace near Beysehir.

Interesting/Useful Blogs

Turkish Travel Blog - Natalie Sayin has been methodically exploring and sharing her country with us for several years now.

Turkey's for Life - Julia & Barry xxx's blog about life and events in and around Fethiye.

Arse About fez - Bill Fredo's expat blog about living in Turkey.

Being Koy - Karyn Phillips' blog about life in Kirazli Koy, Kusadasi.

There's also a couple of books you might consider, written by my colleague Jeremy Seal who has been a lifelong fan of Turkey.

  • Meander: East to West along a Turkish Riveria (Pub 2012)
    Jeremy follows the course of the River Meander from its source in the uplands of Central Turkey - the stamping ground of such illustrious adventurers as Xerxes, Alexander the Great and the Crusader Kings – to the great port city of Miletus, home of the earliest Western philosophers.
  • Santa: A Life (Pub 2005)
    Jeremy follows the life and 'brand' of the Byzantine bishop whose anonymous acts of night-time charity would turn him into the most popular and enduring of all saints. It was serialised as a BBC Radio 4 Book of the Week.
  • A Fez of the Heart (Pub 1995)
    Jeremy's first book tracing the cultural symbolism behind Turkey's one-time iconic headgear. It was shortlisted for the Thomas Cook Travel Book Award.

Pop along to the website named after the tribe that founded Izmir (see above) to get a copy ;)

Interesting/Useful Blog Posts

Busing Around Turkey - Katie Aune's useful guide to the buses.

Caveman in Cappadocia - Norbert Figueroa explores the caves of the Goreme Open Air Museum, Uchisar Castle, and Devrent Valley in Capadocia.

The Road Forks/Turkey - Akila & Patrick McConnell are eating their way around the world. They have a good collection of posts about food and culture in Turkey.

 

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